FOUR: TABLETOP FORMING

• If you plan to make multiple tabletops, it will help save time in the future if you make a template and work from that.
• Working without a template is possible – just mark a center point on the flat sheet of 3/4″ melamine-coated particle board that will be the casting surface.
• Use a large compass, or a pencil and string, to mark out the diameter of the tabletop.
• The tabletop shown here is 48″ in diameter and 2″ thick.

Step 2 – Curved Form Walls

• CHENG Curved Wall Sections make forming up curved shapes very easy.
• Use spray adhesive or double-sided carpet tape to adhere them to the casting surface, following the line of the curve.
• Trim the end of the foam wall section off and complete the circle.
• A tighter bend might need to be fixed to the casting surface with a few drywall screws to keep it from moving – sometimes the tape or adhesive just won’t do it.
• With the outer walls in place, attach the Wall Liners using transfer tape, spray adhesive, or double-sided carpet tape. This will provide a clean edge on the perimeter of the table top.

Step 3 – Complete the Form

• A central knockout is used to create a hole for an umbrella pole.
• This knockout is created from a section of PVC pipe wrapped in foam and covered with clear packing tape. The foam will help it release easily from the concrete, and the tape will leave a smooth surface.
• The knockout is screwed down into the form with a long drywall screw and a big fender washer.
• The form is now ready to caulk. Check out the Corner and Seam Shaping Tools Guide for more tips on sealing the form.
• After any Decorative Details have been added, the form is ready for casting.